Calistoga

Located at the northern tip of Napa Valley at the base of Mount Saint Helena, Calistoga is the less traveled, laid-back sister to the bustling downtown Napa. It’s ironic in a way, since the town of Calistoga helped put Napa Valley on the global wine map. In 1976, the town’s Chateau Montelena (and its 1973 Chardonnay) beat out the best French wines at the legendary tasting known as the Judgment of Paris.

Today, Calistoga’s local wine scene still has attention-grabbing appeal—in part thanks to Castello di Amorosa, the medieval-style, multi-turreted castle on a hill built by Italian-style winemaker Dario Sattui. A tour of the 121,000 square-foot castle (built over 15 years with authentic materials) makes for a fascinating hour, with its five towers, courtyard and loggias, a Tuscan-style farmhouse, a frescoed great hall, stables, a prison, and even a torture chamber (if you don’t like the wines?). Finish up with a 45-minute segment for barrel tastings and sips of current releases.

Barely a mile away from the turreted profile of Castello di Amorosa is one of the oldest family-owned establishments in Napa Valley, Larkmead. With a history that stretches back to 1895, this winery produces some of the most celebrated Cabernet Sauvignon of the valley; it also has a colorful history thanks to original vine cultivator Lillie Hitchcock Coit—of the same Coit family the tower was named after—whose habits of drinking bourbon, playing poker, and smoking cigars bucked the conventions of the day.

Wine is not the only elixir that people love here. Calistoga is the valley’s spa and hot springs capital, and visitors have flocked here seeking rejuvenation in mineral-rich volcanic waters since the 1800s. Spas and resorts range from casual (and clothing optional) to upscale, and most offer hot soaks, saunas, and massages. Indian Springs Calistoga, Solage, and Calistoga Ranch are a few of the area’s high-end properties which all feature luxury spas. Visit Napa Valley has more listed on their site.  

One can’t visit without experiencing the quintessential Calistoga experience: the mud bath. Make an appointment for “The Works” at Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort, where you’ll be treated to a traditional mud bath with facial mask, aromatic mineral whirlpool bath, steam room, blanket wrap, and massage.

Calistoga is also a key spot to enjoy another Napa Valley signature experience: a hot-air balloon ride. Floating above the morning mist, looking out across the still valley as the sun peeks over the surrounding hills—can you imagine where you’d rather be? Cap it all off with a traditional glass of bubbly when you come back to earth.