Discovering the Central Coast and San Joaquin Valley

In seafaring Monterey, rewind time with a hands-on history lesson. Before California joined the Union as the 31st state, this city served as the capital of Mexican Alta California. Relics from the time of Spanish rule—1776 to 1848—are preserved in Old Monterey’s historic quarter. Sip coffee at Alta Bakery, housed in a 19th-century adobe building. Walk the two-mile Path of History and visit Colton Hall, the site of California’s 1849 constitutional convention. Step inside red-tile-roofed Casa Soberanes, an 1840s Spanish-style residence known as “the house of the blue gate,” and then tour the Monterey Museum of Art, filled with works by early California artists. This historic district has modern appeal too: Sit down to a sustainable seafood dinner at Montrio, one of Monterey’s most lauded restaurants, or kick back with a quinoa bowl and sparkling hop water at Alvarado Street Brewery.

A former sardine-fishing hub made famous by novelist John Steinbeck, Cannery Row buzzes with family-friendly attractions: arcades, escape rooms, even an immersive pirate-themed ride. Its beating heart is the Monterey Bay Aquarium, a sprawling museum and research institution that calls to the sea-curious with 200-plus exhibits of aquatic creatures, from fuzzy sea otters to glowing jellyfish. Mingle with the marine life, then explore beyond the glass tanks. Wade through Cannery Row Antique Mall’s shelves of vintage glassware, silver letter openers, and time-warp knickknacks housed in a 20,000-square-foot cannery building. Browse colorful Mexican ceramics at Talavera Memories and then sip wine at Pierce Ranch Vineyards tasting room. When it’s time for rest, let the ocean rhythms lull you to sleep at the bayside InterContinental The Clement Monterey.

One of California’s most important agricultural towns, Salinas is known as “the Salad Bowl of the World.” Get your fill of just-picked strawberries, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts, artichokes, and lettuce at the city’s abundant farm stands, then head downtown to discover Salinas’ outstanding literary legacy. (Nobel Prize–winning author John Steinbeck was born here, and his childhood home is now the National Steinbeck Center.) Pore over the photographs, manuscripts, and memorabilia related to his life and work, then take a walk downtown—Main Street is nicknamed the Steinbeck District. Browse antique stores, clothing boutiques, and shops like Downtown Book & Sound, where the shelves overflow with books and vinyl. Drive along Salinas Valley’s River Road to taste wines from Chardonnay producers Rustique Wines and Odanata Wines South. Then ease into a restful sleep at Chateau Coralini, an 1891 Queen Anne Victorian.

Gilroy hangs its hat on the stinking rose, so almost every eatery in town features garlic-infused food. At Garlic City Cafe, try cream of garlic soup. At Pop’s Public House, order a garlic burger with garlic fries. At Garlic World, taste garlic ice cream and pickled garlic, or purchase garlic braids to give to friends. When you’ve had your fill of the pungent bulb, do a little shopping at Gilroy Premium Outlets, home to 100-plus stores including Coach, Lululemon, Kate Spade, and Vans. If you’re traveling with kids, take them to Gilroy Gardens Family Theme Park to ride the Garlic Twirl—the ride’s cars are shaped like garlic bulbs. As you drive out of Gilroy, stop at Casa de Fruta, a bustling commercial hub that started as a 1940s cherry stand. The massive complex includes a fruit stand, carousel, kiddie train, restaurant, hotel, and wine-tasting room. Allow plenty of time to browse the rows of dried fruit, nuts, chocolates, candies, and easy-drinking fruit wine.

The Central Valley city of Modesto is turning heads with its vigorous arts culture—including downtown’s colorful array of outdoor murals, the Mistlin Gallery’s community art center, and a full roster of shows at the Gallo Center for the Arts. But in spring and summer, Modesto’s agricultural bounty steals the stage, when u-pick farms and produce stands show off their best and freshest: blueberries and cherries at Ott Farms; zinnias and sunflowers at R.A.M. Flower Farm; tulips at Dutch Hollow Farms; and peaches and nectarines at Vanderhelm Farms. As the fruit and flower season ends, turn your attention to cheese. Fiscalini Farmstead’s fourth-generation cheesemakers make intriguing cheddars like Syrah-soaked Purple Moon and Italian-style San Joaquin Gold.

The Central Valley’s central hub, Fresno offers shopping, dining, and nightlife in hip neighborhoods like the Tower District, named after its centerpiece, the neon-lit 1939 Tower Theatre. You can and should spend a whole day exploring retro record stores, vintage clothing boutiques, indie book shops, and buzzing cafes and wine bars. But allot some time to see downtown’s murals and sculptures (start on Fulton Street) and dine on high-piled chicken sandwiches at Tioga-Sequoia Brewing Company. There’s more to explore on Fresno’s outskirts: Tour the subterranean passageways and courtyards planted with fruit trees and grapevines at Forestiere Underground Gardens, and visit the 1903 Kearney Mansion Museum. This opulent French Renaissance–style structure was built for an agriculture pioneer who made his fortune in raisins.

This pine-dotted seaside village overflows with galleries, eateries, and come-hither trails lacing the shoreline. Start by exploring Cambria’s wild coastline: See blubbery elephant seals hauled out on the beaches at Piedras Blancas. Look for sea stars in the rocky tidepools at Leffingwell Landing. Hike along the headlands at Fiscalini Ranch Preserve while watching for the spouts of passing gray whales. Stroll Moonstone Beach's south end and hunt for smoothly polished jadeite and moonstones. Work up an appetite at Cambria’s beautiful beaches and parks, then head to Linn’s Easy as Pie Shop for olallieberry pie or Robin’s for mahi-mahi tacos. Reserve a room at FogCatcher Inn for a prime perch at the edge of the Pacific Ocean.

The wine-centric town of Paso Robles boasts 200-plus tasting rooms. Make Cass Winery your base—not just for sipping Syrah but also for sleeping. Perched on the vineyard’s hilltop, Geneseo Inn’s chic shipping containers feature floor-to-ceiling windows and private decks. Sample cult-status reds at Top Winery’s industrial-style tasting room, or sign up for a wine-and-spice pairing at downtown’s LXV Wine. Nondrinkers will find plenty to do in Paso Robles too: Admire the sculpture garden at Sculpterra Winery; taste locally produced olive oils and vinegars at Kiler Ridge Olive Farm; and stroll through Sensorio, an immersive outdoor light installation designed by acclaimed artist Bruce Munro. As the sun sets in the hills east of downtown, more than 100,000 solar-powered spheres light up. Purchase the Terrace Experience ticket upgrade—you’ll get fireside seating and an elevated view of the glowing fields.

A magnet for painters and poets, Big Sur is the romantic rendezvous of sandstone cliffs, surly waves, and the sundown sea. The coastal views from your car are divine, but they’re even better if you get out and walk. At Andrew Molera State Park, trek a mile to driftwood-laden Molera Beach. At Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, hike Valley View Trail to an overlook of Point Sur and the Big Sur River Valley. For eye-candy drama, stop at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park to watch the silver ribbon of 80-foot McWay Falls plunge off a cliff and flow into the Pacific. When you stop to eat, do some delicious carb-loading at Big Sur Bakery, or pull in to world-famous Nepenthe for an ambrosia burger with a bird’s-eye ocean view. There’s much more to discover in Big Sur, so buy yourself an extra day with a reservation at Glen Oaks Big Sur, a stylish midcentury motel near the Big Sur River’s swimming holes. The next day, enjoy the 30 miles of stunning coastline as you head back to Monterey.